Ten shoemaking techniques

1. Adhesive shoe process:

Also known as cold bonding process, it is a process that uses adhesives to connect the upper, insole and outsole together. Due to the different materials of upper and sole bonding surface, the types and properties of adhesives used are also different, such as neoprene adhesive, polyurethane adhesive, SBS adhesive, etc. Due to its simple process, short production cycle, high production efficiency, low manufacturing cost, fast variety change and easy to expand reproduction, the adhesive process is the most widely used assembly process in the shoemaking industry, accounting for more than 80% of the total shoemaking products. This technology is most used in leather shoes and sports shoes.

2. Shoe sewing process:

Also known as thread sewing shoe technology, it is a process that uses sewing threads to sew the upper, sole and other connecting parts together. The sewing thread used is ramie thread, which has the characteristics of high strength, low elongation, fast moisture absorption and drainage, and high wear resistance. Shoe sewing technology is most widely used in leather shoes products, mainly including sewing lace leather shoes, sewing cuffed leather shoes, through seam leather shoes, etc. Although its process has a long history, complex operation and low production efficiency, its product structure, style and durability are irreplaceable by other processes. Coupled with the development and improvement of machine sewing technology, it is more in line with the needs of modern production and consumption, so it plays an important role in footwear products, and has auxiliary functions in the process of gluing shoes, which leads to the gluing process.

3. Molding shoe process:

It is a process method that uses the rubber flow and mold closing pressure generated by the rubber outsole in the mold vulcanization process to bond the outsole and the upper together. Its outsole and upper are bonded and connected by rubber under high temperature and high pressure, so the molded shoe process has the characteristics of firm upper and bottom bonding, not easy to open glue, wear resistance and bending resistance. Because the mold production cycle of molded shoes is long and the variety of designs and colors changes slowly, it is suitable for the production of large quantities of products. Labor protection shoes, mountaineering shoes, military and Police shoes and other products are mostly produced by molding process. Molding process is a molded vulcanization process derived from the Moldless vulcanization process, which is mostly used in leather shoes.

4. Injection molding shoe process:

Also known as the upper injection molding process, it is a process method that the molten plastic is injected into the outer mold and bonded with the upper as a whole. The outsole materials are mostly PVC, thermoplastic polyurethane, thermoplastic rubber, etc. Its process is to complete the bonding assembly of the upper and bottom under the conditions of automatic feeding, automatic plasticization, automatic metering, automatic injection, automatic mold closing and opening, and automatic molding, so it has the advantages of high production efficiency and automatic production. It is used in the production of leather shoes, cloth shoes, sports shoes and plastic shoes.

5. Vulcanized shoe process:

It is a technological method of vulcanizing and forming by heating and pressing in a vulcanizing tank after the raw films such as outsole, welt and outer wrap are bonded with the upper. The outsole of this process is divided into mouldless (calendering) molding and molded molding. Because the process is relatively rough and it is difficult to control the quality, usually only low-grade products can be produced. In recent years, due to the introduction of foreign advanced production technology, the product grade has been greatly improved. Because vulcanized shoes are comfortable and economical to wear, high efficiency and low cost in production, this process is still applied in the production of rubber overshoes, rubber overshoes and leather shoes, and the production volume is large.

6. Goodyear welted (Goodyear shoemaking technology)

This should be the most familiar shoemaking process. The extension strip is used as the connection between the vamp and the outsole, and the hollow part is filled with cork and steel bars. It has the advantages of convenient bottom changing, good foot feel and durability. Because this is the most common process of Redwing. Let's make a specific introduction to the functions of each part of Goodyear process

1. Insole cover: also known as insole. The soft leather layer covering the midsole is in direct contact with the foot. 2. Insole: it is located under the insole to increase the structural stability of the sole. 3. Outsole: the part of the sole that directly contacts the ground, usually made of thick cow leather, with the function of enhancing wear resistance. 4. Strip welt: This is an important part of Goodyear process. By connecting the vamp, insole and outsole, it can effectively support the whole shoe structure. The shoes are not easy to deform after wearing for a long time. 5. Cork filling: cork filling layer set in the hollow area of the sole. When the wearer walks, it can play a role of elasticity and stability; At the same time, it has the function of moisture absorption and perspiration. 6. Heel heel: it is made of several layers of hard cow leather heels; And add some functional cushion inserts; In the heel position, wear-resistant rubber sheet is used to slow down the wear of the heel. 7. Spring: it is generally made of steel with good elasticity. It is placed in the hollow layer between the midsole and the extension layer at the arch of the foot, which plays a buffer role when walking. Rarely seen in work boots, but often seen on high-end shoes is channel welt. After the groove is made on the outsole, the suture is buried, and finally the groove is sealed, so the outsole can show an extremely simple and exquisite effect.

7、.   Veldtschoen/stitch down (dual w common)

Veldtschoen is the only method that can be completely waterproof. Different from the general production method, veldtschoen uses a double-layer upper, one layer turns outward and the other layer folds inward, so it is difficult for moisture to penetrate into the interior. One of the stitches goes through the midsole and the other goes through all the soles. British shoe manufacturers often have boots with this method in the rural series to meet the needs of hunting customers who travel mountains and rivers. Wesco also uses the same method (they call it stitch down), but does not use the extension strip (because the suture runs through all the bottoms, the extension strip will no longer play the role of connection, so it is optional). According to the introduction of Wesco dealers in the United States, this method can also reduce the use of nails and avoid the corrosion of leather after metal oxidation.

This process is the Jobmaster of Wesco.

8. Moccasin is also called baozi shoes.

As a shoemaking craft of Indians, this is one of the most primitive ways of shoemaking. The upper wraps the whole foot 360 degrees, and only the upper is cut and sewed. Many manufacturers of moccasin will advertise that "true moccasinconstruction" means that the upper is completely wrapped. Imitating the moccasin system rule will cut corners and omit the bottom part. Manufacturers of improved moccasin such as Russell moccasin will use the form of double vamp (double vamp) to stagger the seams to achieve the purpose of waterproof. Arrow moccasin, located in Massachusetts, still insists on using the ancient Indian craft to make shoes, while Quoddy, Maine, has both. This traditional shoe making method unique to the United States is also an important part of amekaji.

9. Norwegian (famous Norwegian sewing)

Although it is called "Norwegian" construction method, this technology was actually invented by Italians. Its main purpose is to strengthen water resistance on the basis of Goodyear construction method. Therefore, compared with Goodyear's method of stitching the shoe inward with the extension, the upper of the Norwegian method is turned outward, and the suture runs through the insole on the side. The stitching of the outer ring is roughly the same as that of Goodyear, but it is worth noting that in the Norwegian method, the extension strip is decorative, because the upper does not need to be combined with the sole through the extension strip.

Hostonestudio: Norway sewing also has a sewing method of burying the welt under the leather

10. Blake is also called inner branch line practice

This is a relatively light shoemaking technology. The leather surface turns inward and is sewn directly on the sole, so there is no need to use extension strips. The advantage of this method is that it can produce more elegant shoes. Because there is no extension, the sole can be made quite thin, and can be cut close to the vamp to achieve a more slender effect. But the disadvantages include that it is not waterproof, it is easy to damage and it is difficult to change the bottom. (the machine making Goodyear structure is much more common than Blake's machine). Many Italian and French shoe factories, such as berluti, use this kind of shoe-making technology, which is also common in light shoes such as loafer.